Paint and Finish a room
Applying the undercoat and the base colour
The walls of our room had been patched and sanded prior to the job but we could still see some faults so we decided on a faux paint finish to disguise them and make our room feel like new.
We are working with the Easi-Paint DIY Home Decorator kit … it is very economical with paint usage … the system only uses half the amount of water based paint that ordinary brushes or rollers do … quick and easy application … and it has a loading system that measures the right amount of paint to from the tray to the brush. Great coverage and there’s no mess to clean up at the end of the job.
We had applied 2 coats of undercoat with the Multi-purpose pads and were now doing 2 coats of British Paints China White low sheen paint on all the walls with the Multi-purpose pads… this is the base coat.
Our water base paint has been mixed to the consistency of pouring cream and it really flows on the surface.
Always do the cutting in and edging first … then it’s an easy matter of filling in the larger areas.
For the edging we’re using the mini brush … make sure the guard that you’re using is free of wet paint and use a light touch … it’s just the weight of the brush that you work with. As the guard sits against the surface you don’t want to paint and keeps that surface clear of paint … this little brush saves hours of messing around and does a great job.
For the walls we’re using the large brush … load it using the loading system in the paint tray … apply the paint to the surface you’re working on … about 1 sq metre at a time … you can apply it in any direction … then always … go back over the work while it’s still wet and lightly lay it off in one direction to get a smooth uniform finish … a light touch is important … you don’t need pressure.
Move to the next section … repeat the process … and you’re at the end in no time.
Now we start on the Faux Finish
We are using a faux finish technique that we call FINE DISTRESSING … which is a simple method of applying paint then taking some of the wet paint off to expose parts of the base colour.
One wall painted a darker colour makes the room feel bigger so on the far wall we used a Dulux colour called Reddish Rust as a top coat … this was also a low sheen paint … which we like to use as it’s a washable surface and has a nice sheen to it that makes the faux paint finishes feel clean and modern.
Load the large brush sparingly with paint for this technique.
The paint is only applied to small areas at a time with the large handle and the Multi-purpose pad … then while the paint is still wet … using the medium Easi-Paint Honeycomb Stippler pad in the medium handle in a random half twisting motion … it’s just enough to rough up the surface … you take some of the wet paint off.
You only use a light touch and you don’t need a uniform finish … so the less you think about your hand movement the easier it is and the better the result.
Move along to the next small area and before you know it … it’s pretty quick … you have created a flowing paint effect that’s a little like stone. It looks textured … yet it’s still smooth to the touch … and it’s amazingly easy to do.
This faux paint finish has a lot of great movement and variation to it as the light changes.
Tip: On a hot day the paint dries too fast and it’s harder to work with … I’ve found that you can add a product called ‘Floetrol’ to the paint to give you a little more time before the paint starts to set.
The difference in paint finishes
I found the easiest way to do this technique on large areas was to leave a small gap … about 1cm between the area I had just applied the faux finish to and the new paint that I had put on to work with.
On the other walls we used the same faux finish technique but the top coat was only a slightly darker shade of a low sheen off white called pale feather by British Paints. As these 2 colours are very close together on the colour spectrum this is a very subtle paint finish … the faults are disguised with a very natural earthy texture. It looks like cream coloured stone and makes me think of sandy beaches.
Faux paint finishes originated many years ago from people imitating the colours and textures of nature and they can be bold or soft … your choice of colour is all that makes the difference to your end result.
Start at the edges with the Honeycomb Stippler. You are using a random half twist action to take some of the paint off. The twisting action will blend the paint into the last section that you did and you will never see where you stopped and started … there are no dark overlaps.
If you’re doing a big job once in a while you will need to wipe any excess paint off the Honeycomb Stippler on to a rag to stop it clogging up.
Almost to the end … it’s coming along well.
The final step was the trim work. We had sanded back all the trim to bare wood before we’d started painting the walls … as you can see on our time schedule below.
We used a Wattyl English mahogany stain … as the richness of colour perfectly offset the natural earthy shades of the paint work … on the windows, the architrave, the skirting boards and lastly to match it all in … the pelmets on our timber blinds.
For this work we used the Stain, Oil & Varnish pads that clip straight into our Easi-Paint handles. These pads are designed to give you more control with thinner, finer timber mediums. They are a much shorter, finer grade of bristle that’s as soft as velvet. They gave us a perfectly even professional finish with the Stain and it was done in no time.
We used the mini brush on the edges for a crisp clean line and the medium brush on the larger areas of the trim … and we used the small paint tray for the smaller jobs.
Then we finished the trim work with 4 coats of Feast Watson floor seal. As floor seal is quite thin and runny we used the Stain, Oil & Varnish pads again … they make these jobs really quick and easy as the pads mould to the contours of the surface you’re working on and shape themselves to the timber mouldings … there is no waste and the results are outstanding.
Floor seal is good to work with … easy to apply … it’s really tough when it’s dry and with every coat you put on the lustre increases so you can choose the level of sheen that you want.
We chose to delineate the feature wall with curved mouldings in the corners which we did in a lighter stain and finished them the same way.
We are really pleased with the end result … the transformation is fantastic. We came in under budget … we finished 1 half days earlier than the allotted time and we had no mess to clean up at the end.
Time taken – 4 days & 3 hours from start to finish
1 day – patching plaster … sanding walls … skirting boards, architrave and windows
1 day -2 coats of undercoat and 2 coats of the base colour … and waiting for the paint to dry
3 hours – the top coat in the faux paint finish on 4 walls
2 days -staining skirting boards , architrave, windows & the pelmet and 4 coats of floor seal on the skirting boards, architrave, windows & the pelmet
(most of this time was waiting for the stain and the floor seal to dry between coats – the actual painting time was about 1 hour 50 minutes )
Cost of the job
$ 95.00 1 Easi-Paint Home Decorators kit (reusable)
– 1 large paint tray with loading roller
– 1 small paint tray with loading roller
– 1 large brush with Multi-purpose pad
– 1 medium brush with Multi-purpose pad
– 1 mini brush with Multi-purpose pad
– 1 removable ceiling & high wall extension clip
$ 15.00 1 Easi-Paint medium Honeycomb Stippler pad (reusable)
$ 25.00 1 Set of 3 Easi-Paint Stain, Oil & Varnish pads (reusable)
$ 26.00 plaster and sandpaper
$ 105.00 undercoat and paint (still got plenty left)
$ 75.00 timber stain and floor seal (still a little of both left)
$341.00 of which $135 won’t have to be spent on the next projects
The kit and the pads are fully reusable so we can use the system over and over again.
This is the first of many projects we will share with you … with a large range of clip-in paint pads for all sorts of different jobs there’s nothing we can’t do.